Step jaw chuck with 5-100mm range - AAW Forum

The chuck on the left is from my old LaBlond metal lathe and you can see that it has 2 sets of jaws and the female thread on the jaws is full width for the best accuracy and strength so if they are reversing one set of jaws they must not have a full width tread = super cheap.
The chuck on the right has two piece jaws that are each attached with 2 allen head cap screws and they are reversible without removing the jaw base.
The procedure for reversing the single jaw set would be to remove all 4 jaws then reinsert them starting with number 1 and you still may not get it right with the result that it will not be centered.
Bottom line is that is a poor excuse for a machine lathe chuck and even worse for a woodturning chuck.

The chuck on the left is from my old LaBlond metal lathe and you can see that it has 2 sets of jaws and the female thread on the jaws is full width for the best accuracy and strength so if they are reversing one set of jaws they must not have a full width tread = super cheap.The chuck on the right has two piece jaws that are each attached with 2 allen head cap screws and they are reversible without removing the jaw base.The procedure for reversing the single jaw set would be to remove all 4 jaws then reinsert them starting with number 1 and you still may not get it right with the result that it will not be centered.Bottom line is that is a poor excuse for a machine lathe chuck and even worse for a woodturning chuck.

For more information, please visit 5 Jaw Power Chuck.

darkzero said:

Depends on the size of the chucks I guess but I find the opposite. My 6.3" 3-jaw chucks will hold stock smaller than my 6.3" 6-jaw chucks.

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I'm with Will. I have a Pratt Burnerd 6 jaw setrite and due to the shape of the jaws, the smallest it will hold is about a 5/16" OD piece. A 3 jaw, at least in my experience, will go smaller. A 6 jaw also does not have the holding power of a 3 or 4 jaw chuck and being a scroll chuck it is not necessarily more accurate unless it is a Set-rite type.

6 jaw chucks hold thin walled stuff better than a 3 jaw due to more evenly applied tension around the circumference of the part. They can potentially hold slippery stuff like plastics better because it isn't slipping into the gaps between jaws. Beyond these two kinds of work I don't see that a 6 jaw is all that much better. A 3 jaw will grab a part more securely and a 4 jaw is more accurate when dialed in, even compared to a setrite chuck.

I have way too many chucks for my lathe and all of them are top shelf chucks. I have multiple 3 jaws, 4 jaws, 3 and 6 jaw setrite, magnetic and ER chucks. Of all of them, the most useful by far is the simple 3 jaw chuck. When I need accuracy, the 4 jaw comes out. Otherwise, the other stuff comes out only when needed and quite honestly, that isn't all that often.

I'm with Will. I have a Pratt Burnerd 6 jaw setrite and due to the shape of the jaws, the smallest it will hold is about a 5/16" OD piece. A 3 jaw, at least in my experience, will go smaller. A 6 jaw also does not have the holding power of a 3 or 4 jaw chuck and being a scroll chuck it is not necessarily more accurate unless it is a Set-rite type.6 jaw chucks hold thin walled stuff better than a 3 jaw due to more evenly applied tension around the circumference of the part. They can potentially hold slippery stuff like plastics better because it isn't slipping into the gaps between jaws. Beyond these two kinds of work I don't see that a 6 jaw is all that much better. A 3 jaw will grab a part more securely and a 4 jaw is more accurate when dialed in, even compared to a setrite chuck.I have way too many chucks for my lathe and all of them are top shelf chucks. I have multiple 3 jaws, 4 jaws, 3 and 6 jaw setrite, magnetic and ER chucks. Of all of them, the most useful by far is the simple 3 jaw chuck. When I need accuracy, the 4 jaw comes out. Otherwise, the other stuff comes out only when needed and quite honestly, that isn't all that often.

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