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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sydney, Oz
Posts: 336
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxSaleen
It might be cheaper to make a Cu top and smelt the two together. This would provide a better seal, and might be cheaper if done in mass production.
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxSaleen
If your going to use an O-ring, I would at least cut a groove in the block (unless of course your equipment doesn't allow for this).
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydee
If you don't trust just silicone you could get some rubber gasket material in sheets and cut a peice to fit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydee
Should have the stuff at an autoparts store. Just make sure your screw spacing is close, especially with a plastic top.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydee
I would just use clear silicone though. Once you tighten the bolts you can't even tell the stuff is there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TaTS
If you are not planning on opening the block say, once or twice a week, silicone is definetly the way to go.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathar
Want more information on difference between gasket and o-ring? Feel free to contact us.
Yeah - I'd go with the rubber gasket material. Heck, I even have some 1mm thick stuff here if you want me to send you some.
1mm thick rubber won't be thick enough when compressed. Can I double up? I can't find a URL online to know how compressible it is and whether I can thus get some that is approx 1mm thick when properly compressed.Nah - my block will be very cheap. Just the material cost of a copper top is more expensive than the machined acrylic top, let alone the effort to drill and tap barb holes. It also means I cannot take it apart, which is not really acceptable due to other constraints. Thanks anyway.Equipment should be fine as I have none and will get it professionally made. The issue is that an O-ring groove, in its design, means that the two surfaces being seperated now touch each other. It my cases, I don't want this. The groove is also machining I wish to avoid.Ta - this is firming as an option but I will discuss further below.Define close? I have approx 30mm between hold-together bolts. Close enough?As per above, I need the o-ring or gasket in order to provide some spacing.I think, though, that "smoothing" the gap between the top and bottom caused by the o-ring with silicon goop has a number of advantages:1) Cheap. Very little silicon material used per block, and silicon material is cheap. O-rings are more expensive than I thought, but I assume much cheaper than a custom gasket shape. O-rings at AUD$2.30 each? Sigh. Oh hang on, if I find a commonly used size they're like AUD$0.60. Phew!2) Easy. A quick and easy job with no real skills required. Perhaps a minute per block including making it look good.3) Professional. It won't look cheap, even though it is.4) Simple: Joe-Blo has the tools at home to take the block apart, clean it up, put it back together and get it right. He/she could replace the barbs or o-ring or bolts if damaged without needing to buy them off me.5) Protective: I can mark the silicon with a mark from a stamp and hence know if a block has been reassembled.My issue is simply how cheaply I can get 100 made. Cathar - you should be able to guess why I want the gap!1mm thick rubber won't be thick enough when compressed.Can I double up? I can't find a URL online to know how compressible it is and whether I can thus get some that is approx 1mm thick when properly compressed.Even so, I can't see how I can cheaply make them coz I waste so much material. Cutting them out by hand is out too - too time consuming. The benefit is I can use a custom shape of the rubber mate to make my block a little better, but the cost scares me.Sigh.In my searching I have come across "X rings" and also "Boss Gaskets". Not sure if they will be better for what I want to do?
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Are O-Rings Brand Specific? Author: cakins (MO) This is our faucet:
[www.plumbingwarehouse.com]
The o-rings shown (RP22934) are what we need to replace. The question is this: Must we try to find those specific Delta part numbers, or are these type of o-rings general enough in nature that we might find them at a local big box that's still open tonight?
These look to be one inch (or slightly over) in diameter.
Note: I know this forum is connected with an online store too, but I couldn't find the Delta part numbers on it. Hence the link above. Please don't shoot me.
O-rings are not brand specific. Although finding the right size can be challenging at times. It also helps if you know the rubber type...
There are several.
Usually the faucet information from the Delta site does not raise objections while a competing site that sells faucets would.
Some manufacturers are kind enough to actually list the size and material of the o-rings however delta does not...
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Edited 1 times.
O-rings are a commodity, but there are a huge number. Set aside different materials....most faucet o-rings are probably buna-n.
O-rings are a precision seal, much different from a seat or gasket. SO, the ID, the OD, and the cross section ( thickness ) must be very precise.
You could probably take any faucet o-ring into a very well stocked plumbing supply, and the counter guy could match it up. It is much easier to purchase an o-ring ( or set ) as a specific part number for a specific faucet, rather than look for a part that is 29/32"OD, 27/32"ID...etc. But it is not mandatory.
Edited 1 times.
i don't know for sure, but the "O" rings may be part of a rebuild kit.
typically a delta rebuild kit contains seats, springs, "O" rings and a tool.
lube the rings with silicone grease..
They are not brand specific, but they are size specific, and since there are thousands of sizes, buying the OEM o-ring saves you time and effort of trying to match its dimensions.
I'm sure that if you call Delta, they will send you those O rings free.
800-345- DELTA
Best Wishes
A little word of caution for anyone buying a new faucet.
Don't buy the off brands at the big do-it-yourself stores.
A bought a house with a leaking faucet that had no manufacturer name on it. I went to home depot, lowes, and a reputable plumbing supply and no one could match up the o-rings.
Buy a name brand!
As stated above, several different types of rubbers/polymers, several different durometers(hardness), and MANY different size combinations are available. If you have the TIME to surf through all these, you can find several places that will sell you 100-1000 o-rings of each size you need. This is wonderful if you are running a faucet rebuild shop, but is really inefficient and costly if you just need to repair 1 or 2 faucets.
Unless you NEED the larger quantities, I suggest you go for the OEM parts. They may seem expensive, but the alternative can be even more costly.
Johnny go to this link [www.mcmaster.com]# and type "O Ring" into the search block...
I guarantee they have your O-Ring.
Finding which one it is may be a challenge though...
There are a couple to pick from...
Aflas O-Rings
ANSI Specification O-Rings
AS3578 O-Rings
AS568A O-Rings
Buna-N O-Rings
EPDM Rubber O-Rings
FEP-Encapsulated O-Rings
Fluorosilicone O-Rings
HNBR O-Rings
Kalrez O-Rings
Metric O-Rings
Military Specification O-Rings
MIL-P-83461 O-Rings
MIL-R-25988 O-Rings
MIL-R-83248C O-Rings
MS 28775 O-Rings
MS 29513 O-Rings
Neoprene O-Rings
Nitrile O-Rings
NSF-Certified O-Rings
Plumbers' O-Ring Assortments
Polyurethane O-Rings
PTFE O-Rings
Rubber O-Rings
Silicone O-Rings
Square O-Rings
Viton® Fluoroelastomer O-Rings
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