how to add glycol to boiler

I have a 130 s.f. greenhouse with insulating glass on the roof and three sides. One side is against the house and has a double pane sliding door connecting into the house. The calculated heat loss for the space at 0 degree outside temperature and 65 degree inside temperature is 15,285 BtuH. This is a working greenhouse (not an occupied space) and in winter is set for 65 degrees daytime, 55 degrees overnight to accommodate orchid grow cycles. On sunny days in winter the temperature will go up to 75 to 80 degrees from solar gain and there is little or no call for heat. The heating is 90 feet of copper/aluminum fin tube without enclosure on a separate zone. The fin tube runs inside the glass perimeter in an 8 inch deep &#;ditch&#; below the finished floor level but open to the space above, and between the joists under the floor. The joist spaces are open to the ditch on one end so in addition to heating the floor the heat there can escape through the ditch to the greenhouse space. The problem I am encountering is that the greenhouse is not able to maintain 65 on cloudy days or 55 at night when outdoor temps are in single digits. I do not recall this happening with my old boiler running at a supply temp of 180. I have had to keep the door into the house open overnight on cold nights to keep the greenhouse above 50 degrees. Since I converted to gas heat and installed an ES-2 boiler I have been taking readings that show generally the greenhouse return temp is about 9 degrees less than supply. That delta is consistent for supply temps in the 140s to 160s. I think this is indicating that the fin tube is delivering anywhere from 24,000 to 44,000 BtuH. I have calculated the heat output two ways: (90 ft. of fintube) x (310 BtuH/ft.) x (.85 factor for H2O @ 140) = 23,715 BtuH and (490 constant for H2O @ 140) x (10 gpm flow) x (9 degrees delta T) = 44,100 BtuH assuming a 10 gpm flow since the greenhouse piping is only about 4 feet above the Taco 007 pump on the return line. Obviously something is wrong since those results are significantly higher than the calculated need. Overall for the entire house the actual heat losses determined from gas usage are running about 85% of the calculations, so I am reasonably confident that there is no major error there. Here are the questions: Which calculation should I believe? Is the water hot enough? Is the water flowing too fast to allow the fin tube to release enough heat to the space? Please also comment on whether the following are possible solutions or provide others: Install floor vents at the closed ends of the joist cavities to allow more air flow over the fintube. Reduce the flow by partially closing the supply or return valves. Repipe to obtain supply water for this zone ahead of the bypass (average about 14 degrees higher.) Thanks for y our help.

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