It's normal for whatever water that's in the hose to run back out after the pump stops. On my boat the way the PO ran the hose that was enough to turn the pump back on. It would just pump the same water back and forth all day long. A check valve would prevent that, but they restrict the flow so not a good idea. And I'm in Michigan so I would have to remove the check valve to winterize. If you can reroute with the highest spot soon after the pump the back flow will be minimized. Outlet needs to be above water to prevent siphoning. The solution I used was a small pump with small hose and as short and direct a route as possible. It only holds a few ounces to flow back and handles any nuisance water. The big emergency pump is mounted higher with it's own float switch and it never comes on.
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Explore more:I have just removed all the bilge pump hose, could be the original ones possibly around 27 years old.
The old hose is the heavy duty black rubber with a wire which spirals the length.. very similar to exhaust hose.
To replace like for like the local swindlery want around £20/M......i need approx 15m.
I asked for advice in the shop and they reckon it is a bit over the top and most people now use the clear reinforced plastic, much cheaper but in my opinion can kink easily at bends, also is there a likely hood of it crushing under pump use?
So would the white reinforced sanitation hose be a better option, strong enough for vacume heads, should be good for bilges or is there somthing im missing?
Any advice please
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