Affordable Edge Banding System?

If you can't justify the dollars for a top-end edgebander, what are your other practical options? January 26,

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Question

I previously shared a query about edge banding without investing in an edge bander. Several users suggested FastEdge, which I was considering. However, after comparing prices, exploring options like a used Virutex handheld local to me, and reading various discussions, I have come down to a few choices:

Options to Consider

1. Purchase approximately $200-$300 worth of FastEdge, sufficient for a couple of known projects (including my own shop cabinets).

2. Acquire a used Virutex AG98F and pre-glued banding, which would likely cost about the same for initial tasks but would be more cost-effective later due to the cheaper pre-glued banding compared to FastEdge.

3. Invest in an inexpensive iron to work with the pre-glued edge banding. This is the most budget-friendly option, but my past experience (on a very small job) suggested it could be time-consuming. I only considered this option after reading previous recommendations comparing it to the handheld edgebander. Would the Virutex be quicker or more effective?

I understand many might argue I should allocate funds for a proper edgebander; however, it's not currently feasible for various reasons.

Community Insights

(Cabinetmaking Forum)

From contributor A:

I own the handheld Virutex, which has been gathering dust for three years. It never seemed to work effectively for me. Ultimately, I resorted to a small tabletop model from Woodworkers Supply, similar to the old Freud version. I primarily use it for edgebanding shelves and occasional partitions. In our work, which only involves face frame construction, we utilize pre-finished tape, and it performs excellently. Just another option...

From contributor W:

Utilize the Virutex for smaller tasks while outsourcing your edgebanding for larger projects until you can afford a professional edgebander. Occasionally, I employ Fastcap tape for banding that's unavailable in pre-glued form, but I prefer to avoid it. The Virutex may be a bit challenging initially, but it outperforms the iron approach.

From contributor S:

For now, I would opt for the small tabletop version along with an iron (I've never used either, but a friend of mine swears by the iron). I experienced mixed results with the stick-on type mentioned. Ensure a clean edge for sticking it on. A few passes with a sanding block (or edgesander) and a puff of air can help. Without an edgebander, honing your technique for trimming and filing edges will take practice.

From contributor J:

I handle both framed and frameless cabinets and still lack an edgebander. I almost bought one, but the general consensus advised against cheaper or used machines, hence my decision to wait a bit longer. For now, the iron-on method works for me, albeit slower than an edgebander.

Many believe a handheld edgebander saves time, but for me, most of the time is spent trimming. My instinct is to begin with an iron, and if you acquire enough business to justify an upgrade down the line, you will also have better funds for investment.

From contributor R:

I’ve experimented with both the Virutex and the Woodworkers Supply tabletop edge banders. My Virutex has lost its high heat mode but still works somewhat effectively on low heat, albeit more slowly. The table model is slightly faster, offering a variable heat range.

You will receive excellent service from Lituo.

While both tools are no match for a decent edgebander, investing in a quality machine is crucial to minimize frustration with a low-cost setup. For a time, I owned the floor model Virutex, but it required excessive management. Since I specialize in face frame cabinets, I use wood molding for all shelf edges, making edge banding less significant for my work. My choice to maintain this method stems largely from the headaches and costs linked with edge banders. Spending more time on building face frames is preferable for me than juggling with edge banders.

From contributor A:

I’ve tried all three methods and, quite frankly, none are ideal.

Iron - The labor costs associated are significant. The stick-on alternative is definitely superior in this arena. Moreover, the iron-on variants are quite thin and often transmitted the texture of the substrate beneath the edgebanding, especially melamine.

As for the Virutex handheld, I possess one but could never master its use. It requires two hands for operation, and I found myself needing to apply substantial pressure while pulling to establish a good bond. Often, I resorted to using the "hair dryer" feature on the device to heat and press the edges for a solid stick. Again, it’s slow, but marginally quicker than an iron.

Peel and stick - Functions adequately, turning out to be the most effective of the three, albeit with its own set of trimming challenges that dull blades quickly. Fortuitously, I discovered a company willing to apply the peel and stick on custom edgebanding, freeing me from limitations.

That said, my team has switched to genuine wood .25 edge banding. We utilize maple plywood with maple hardwood to fashion our own edgebanding. This strategy is both time-efficient and allows for better control over finishes. Importantly, customers appreciate knowing we’re using solid wood that’s 1/4" thick, as opposed to conventional edgebanding. Many associate peeling edgebanding with lower-quality furniture. It’s a compelling selling point.

However, should I have a $30K Chelsia with 3mm functionality, including trimming, buffing, and scraping, it would certainly be put to use. Right now, we simply do not need one and cannot rationalize the expense.

From contributor M:

Every cabinet professional traverses this dilemma at some time. I’ve opted against using FastCap brand peel and stick until approximately six years ago when I came across a peel and stick option featuring 3M brand adhesive. This product was exceptionally durable and adhered perfectly, even remaining resolute on concrete floors for years.

From the original questioner:

I had not previously considered the application of 1/4" solid edge banding, but it now seems a viable alternative. The Virutex I was looking into has sold, which leaves that option unavailable (at least at the previously estimated price). I’re curious about the methods others use to attach and trim your solid banding? Thanks.

From contributor N:

I recommend buying a pre-owned edgebander, perhaps a Cehisa - they are robust and reliable. While they may not be state-of-the-art, they are economical and considerably sturdy. Many models can apply thin solid wood edge banding effortlessly, such as 1/4" width. My old EP10 can handle 13/16" x 1 5/8" consistently. Post office furniture rework, I initially thought to rely on tape for smaller quantities but soon discovered I was ironing on many shelves by hand. I believed this was an efficient technique until the job lists piled up. Eventually, I dug through my old resources to convert the edge bander from solid wood utilization to tape. The shift significantly expedited my workflow.

Solutions like these often sold between $ and $ - predominantly EP 20's and EP 30's, which are substantial, perform reliably, and can easily handle two or three shifts daily. Nevertheless, if tools are required, opting for used machinery is both sensible and effective.

From contributor A:

When milling wood for the face frames, I take the leftover too-narrow strips and cut several .25 x .75 pieces. Depending on their use, I may apply glue and secure them temporarily with a .23 gauge brad nailer while the glue cures. For exposed surfaces, I place a few clamps for around 15 minutes until dry.

Typically, brad nailers dominate the process. Afterwards, sand flush at the top and bottom to finish. When the finish dries, I conceal the brad holes with matching wax.

For edges, a flush trim bit in the router works wonders. For added design, a round over bit may be employed on the top edge. Nevertheless, the primary advantage remains the customer appeal. Once business volume justifies the investment, I recommend securing a hot melt (glue pot) edgebander that accommodates solid wood strips.

From contributor N:

Previously, when attaching wooden strips for banding, I found the time it took to putty seams and nail holes accumulated quickly. To enhance efficiency, if purchasing an edgebander isn’t a priority, consider a used stroke sander. It allows for rapid sanding on shelves. In contrast, handheld belt sanders or orbitals are not as effective. Stroke sanders are indispensable in wood shops. Even while banding solid wood strips on shelves or desktops with my EP 10, stroke sanders remain useful. There’s a multitude of applications for them, despite many wood shops underestimating their value. Once experienced, one would likely never part with it.

Contact us to discuss your requirements of Solid Grain Edge Banding Supplier. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.