Shampoos, creams, balms, gels, soaps &#; these are just some of the cosmetic products that we have at our fingertips. This type of assortment portfolio is very extensive, and store shelves are stocked with various types of cosmetic products.

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The global cosmetics market plays a significant role in the global economy and remains in a long-term upward trend. Also, in Poland, the cosmetics industry is an important segment of the economy. Manufacturers are competing in developing cosmetic formulations based on modern technology and current market trends.

Therefore, cosmetic products placed on the market are required to be safe, effective and of appropriate quality. These criteria are a priority for the cosmetics industry. For this reason, the production of cosmetics requires the use of not only specialised production processes but also appropriate raw materials. Their proper composition will allow for the production of an effective cosmetic with the properties desired by the consumer.

Along with the growing awareness and more common access to knowledge, consumers begin to demand from producers that their cosmetics should be produced with natural and lesser processed substances. Cosmetic raw materials of natural origin are becoming a standard on the market of intermediates.

What are cosmetic intermediates?

Cosmetics are various types of chemicals or mixtures that are intended for external contact with the human body, as well as with the teeth and mucous membranes of the oral cavity. They can be used, among others, for the care of skin, hair, nails and many other elements of our body.

Each of the cosmetics has a unique composition, rich in various types of semi-finished products. Among the ingredients used, we can find, among others, surfactants, emollients, humectants, fragrances, substances responsible for their consistency, foam formation, water, which we already know so well, and many others. The intermediates contained in cosmetics are responsible not only for their form. The properties that characterise them are also important, as they influence the mode of action and intended use of these products.

Among the available intermediates, we can find synthetic cosmetic raw materials, but also raw materials of natural origin. On the cosmetics label or in the offer presented to us by a given store or wholesaler, we should find information on individual ingredients, as well as markings proving certificates, e.g. proving their origin.

What is a raw material of natural origin?

Is a raw material of natural origin the same as a natural raw material? These terms are often used interchangeably. Is that correct? Well, no.

Natural raw materials are materials of plant, animal or mineral origin used in technological processes. They are the result of various processes, including enzymatic or microbiological, which process the raw material only to a small extent. They also preserve their natural properties, nutritional values, vitamins, or other substances with beneficial properties.

On the other hand, raw materials of natural origin are based on natural raw materials, but additionally, they are subject to further chemical changes. Cosmetic products based on this type of raw material have gained popularity due to various properties, including moisturizing, anti-ageing, as well as protecting against the harmful effects of free radicals. Moreover, they are environmentally friendly, safe and of high-quality products. However, it should be remembered that a product based on raw materials of natural origin is not a natural product.

Manufacturers often signed their products as natural, which was far from the truth. After getting acquainted with the composition of INCI, it could be noticed that organic raw materials or plant extracts constituted only a small percentage of all raw materials. This led to misleading the consumer.

For this reason, independent international certification organizations have been established. Placing their symbols on the product packaging ensures that the cosmetics are based on raw materials of natural origin. One of the main certification organizations is ECOCERT. Cosmetic products with this marking cannot contain such raw materials as synthetic oils, parabens, silicones, PEGs, petroleum derivatives, artificial colours and flavours.

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The quality of the raw materials proves the quality of the cosmetic

The quality features are mainly related to the requirements of customers, which include, among others, effective protection, care, improvement of the condition of the skin, hair as well as nails. Despite complying with all the required regulations and the raw materials used, the quality of the products can vary significantly. It depends on a large number of factors occurring before and during each stage of the production process, as well as after its completion. For this reason, certain parameters are specified, which the cosmetics manufacturer should pay special attention to at the very beginning of the technological process.

One of the key factors is the quality of the ingredients used. Therefore, it is worth choosing raw materials from proven producers who offer certified raw materials. The good quality and properties of cosmetic intermediates are confirmed by a number of tests and experiences. This enables the production of a cosmetic that will satisfy the expectations of even the most demanding consumers. However, in the production process, the right amount of ingredients is also important, as well as the use of an appropriate technological process.

Do all cosmetics work effectively?

As a consumer, you should be aware that every cosmetic, including the one based on natural ingredients, does not have to be fully effective. Human skin can react in different ways in contact with substances contained in cosmetics. Therefore, it is worth observing our body, carrying out regular examinations and staying in touch with specialists who will advise us on what products will allow us to achieve the best care results.

Buy consciously &#; choose products made from raw materials of good quality

By being a conscious consumer, you act for the benefit of reliable producers. You help them create brands. By purchasing a high-quality product, you are supporting the manufacturer who has put effort into its development, obtaining the appropriate raw materials and carrying out the entire technological process.

Cosmetic intermediates &#; whether of natural or synthetic origin &#; have many different properties that can have both positive and negative effects on us. Therefore, it is worth educating yourself on this topic, using the advice of specialists and choosing products that will give you the best possible effect.

You will also find a wide range of specialized intermediates and finished cosmetic products in the offer of the PCC Group.

Betaines are one of the most commonly used cosmetic intermediates. In the product portfolio of the PCC Group, they can be found under the trade name &#; Rokamina. They reduce the irritating properties of preparations containing anionic surfactants. Moreover, they have very good foaming properties in a wide range of pH and water hardness. They are also 100% ecological, which is confirmed by receiving the ECOCERT quality mark. Amphoteric surfactants from the betaine group include, among others, ROKAmina K40HC, ROKAmina K30 as well as ROKAmina K30B.

Another significant group among cosmetic intermediates are ROKAcets. In particular, ROKAcet KO300G and ROKAcet HR40 are worth paying attention to. They are non-ionic surfactants with very good cleansing properties. Both products stabilize oil in water emulsions, are biodegradable and are based on renewable plant raw materials. ROKAcet HR40 mainly acts as a solubiliser, thanks to which hydrophobic substances (insoluble in water) such as essential oils, fragrances or vitamins can be introduced into the aqueous solution. On the other hand, ROKAcet KO300G is mainly used as a conditioning agent and emollient in cleansing cosmetics. What does it mean? The product reduces the drying effect of the preparation, as a result of which the skin surface remains moisturized and covered with a protective layer.

On the other hand, ROKAtend LS can be distinguished from the group of mild anionic surfactants used in the cosmetics industry. It belongs to the amino acid surfactants, which are one of the milder surfactants available on the market. In addition to its excellent cleansing and foaming properties, it also contributes to the feeling of long-lasting comfort and softness of the skin.

The PCC Group provides comprehensive assistance in choosing a product that meets all customer requirements. For more information on cosmetic intermediates, visit www.products.pcc.eu.

7 pieces of equipment for intermediate formulators

A few months ago I shared Ten pieces of equipment for new formulators (Part 1 & Part 2), where I covered ten must-have (and a few bonus/optional) pieces of equipment you need to start formulating skincare and cosmetics. Today we are looking at equipment you&#;ll want to add to your formulating kit as you grow and progress into an intermediate formulator. Some of these items are upgrades, some are expansions, and some are brand new. Let&#;s get started!

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A quick note: this list is not about equipment for manufacturing in large batches&#;it&#;s for doing lots of making, testing, iterating, and experimenting in small batches. I do not do any sort of bulk manufacturing and cannot provide from-experience advice on what you should get for that sort of thing. Larger vessels + more powerful mixers would be a good place to start, but I&#;d recommend seeking out advice from makers who actually do big-batch making if this is something you are interested in &#;

Intermediate equipment principles

When should you upgrade? There&#;s no hard timeline for when you should start investing in the items discussed in this post, but I&#;d generally advise you to wait until what you are currently working with no longer works for you. If you cannot create the things you want to create because your equipment is getting in the way, it&#;s time to start thinking about upgrading.

Shop second-hand where possible. Thrift shops are great, but I&#;ve never seen a set of beakers at the Goodwill! As you start looking for more specialized equipment it can be more helpful to turn to second hand websites like Kijiji, GumTree, and Facebook Marketplace to see if you can get some good deals on niche items you&#;re unlikely to find at a charity shop.

Keep in mind what you like to make when choosing what to upgrade, and only upgrade/invest in items that will get lots if use. For example; I&#;ve chosen to invest most of my beaker budget into beakers that are 500mL and smaller, mostly focussing on 50&#;250mL sizes, as I mostly make small batches. Jumbo sized beakers simply wouldn&#;t get much use in my studio.

I&#;m assuming you already own the all items (the 10 + the optionals + the honourable mentions) covered in Ten pieces of equipment for new formulators (Part 1 & Part 2). They&#;re foundational and essential&#;start there!

A better scale (or two)

You should already have a scale (or three), but if you&#;re still working with a starter battery-powered scale, I highly recommend upgrading. Not only will a better scale make your formulating life easier, but it&#;ll also last longer. My battery powered scales rarely lasted more than a year or two with heavy use, while my more expensive scales are going on 5+ years and are still happily chugging along.

What to upgrade (and why)

Upgrade from battery-powered to plug in. I love my plug-in scales because they don&#;t automatically shut off if I&#;m taking too long to weigh something out, or if I&#;m trying to weigh out a super teensy amount of something. Depending on the scale you may need to break out the manual to learn how to disable auto shut-off, but once that&#;s done&#; what a relief. No more worrying about the scale blinking off with no warning as you&#;re working!

Upgrade the precision. The more precise your scale is, the smaller your batches can be. I use a scale that&#;s accurate to 0.01g for almost everything I make, and I love it!

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Are you interested in learning more about chemical name bmk? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!

Upgrade the maximum weight. My favourite scale is accurate to 0.01g and has a maximum weight of 500g (1.1lbs), and it&#;s the combination of the relatively high maximum weight and the precision that makes it so useful. My first 0.01g scale had a maximum weight of 100g (3.5oz), which really limited its usefulness. For example, I couldn&#;t use it to top off my heated water phase for emulsions as the weight of the beaker + the water phase was almost always over that 100g maximum weight.

I have these scales and I&#;m happy with all of them:

• 0.01g x 500g: Jennings TB 500 (USA / Canada) (I use this scale for 95% of my formulating)
• 0.1g x 700g: My Weigh iBALANCE 700 (USA / Canada) (I used this a lot when I first got it, but it&#;s been mostly replaced by the TB 500)
• 0.001g x 60g: My Weigh GemPro 300 (Canada) (I only use this for creating tiny batches of colour cosmetics)

A mini fridge

As you grow as a formulator, your ingredient collection usually grows with you. I highly recommend picking up a second-hand mini fridge to store your more expensive and delicate ingredients to help extend their shelf lives. I keep most of my carrier oils and all my hydrosols in the fridge, plus any ingredients suppliers recommend refrigerating. Make sure you purchase a mini fridge that can accommodate tall-ish bottles; my first one was a cube mini fridge and the bulk of it was too short for 400ml+ bottles.

A pH meter

In Ten pieces of equipment for new formulators: Part 2 I recommend pH strips or a pH meter. If you&#;ve been using strips, you should upgrade to a digital meter as an intermediate formulator so you know your pH measurements are precise. Look for a digital meter that measures a wide range; I have the Apera AI311 (USA / Canada) pH meter. I like it, though I do not have a stable of pH meters to compare it to! I purchased this pH meter back in and I&#;ve been happy with it.

Learn more: pH measurement in cosmetic lab: why we dilute samples? from Skin Chakra

Beakers

The more I formulate, the more I gravitate towards beakers and away from my (still wonderful!) Pyrex measuring cups. I love beakers for several reasons:

• They&#;re lighter than Pyrex measuring cups, so they use up less of your scale&#;s maximum weight allowance.
• They&#;re available in a much wider range of sizes; I&#;ve got 25mL, 50mL, 100mL, 150mL, 250mL, 400mL, 500mL, and 600mL beakers. The 50&#;400mL ones get the most use in my studio.
• You can put them directly on a glass-top stove or hot plate, which can be incredibly useful.
• You can buy them by the half dozen or dozen from industrial supply shops like Grainger Canada.

Lab spoons & glass stirring rods

If your collection of stirring tools doesn&#;t yet include some long-handled lab spoons and some glass stirring rods, I think you should get some &#; I use mine all the time for measuring, stirring, smashing, squishing, etc. They&#;re great!

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Hot plate

I recently picked up a second hand Corning PC-35 hot plate and I love it. It&#;s small and mighty; it can heat from 0&#;510°C (&#;)! If I turn it to a notch or two above &#;low&#; it heats to 60&#;70°C, which can eliminate the need for a water bath. It&#;s also really useful when heating ingredients that are stubborn to melt in a water bath, like BTMS-25 and Polyamide-3.

You can purchase hot plates that also have a magnetic stirring function, though they&#;re usually more expensive.

When shopping for a hot plate, look at:

• The size: is it small enough to store? Large enough to hold a couple beakers at the same time?
• The heat range: Some of the hot plates I looked at had really low maximum heats. You are unlikely to need 510°C, but I&#;d look for something that goes up to at least 130&#;150°C.
• The heat controls: Mine is controlled by a dial without any temperature indications, so I use my infrared thermometer to see how hot the hot plate is. You can purchase heat plates with digital controls that allow you to dial in the temperature you want, though they&#;re more expensive.

If your home has a glass-top stove you can delay the purchase of a hot plate, but I sure love having my hot plate right in my studio!

Multiples of the tools you use the most

I adore having multiples of the items I use the most. It allows me to work on multiple formulations simultaneously, lets me save dishes for the end of a formulating session rather than having to stop part way through to wash up, and makes inevitable breakages less likely to grind my work to a halt.

These are some items I love having multiples of:

• Beakers & Pyrex measuring cups
• My beloved Jar/Icing Spatulas
• Spoons
• Stirring rods
• Glass prep cups

Some tools to consider & dream about

These items are more expensive & specialized; think about what you love making and what investments would really be worth it for what you make.

A homogenizer

If you absolutely adore making emulsions, you might want to consider upgrading from an immersion blender to a homogenizer for ultra-smooth, incredibly uniform emulsions. I have the Dynamic MiniPro with the homogenizer attachment. It works well, but I find I don&#;t use it all that often because it&#;s so heavy and clunky. If I ever purchase another homogenizer it&#;ll definitely be an overhead model that is built into a stand for hands-free homogenizing fun!

Watch this: What is Homogenization?

A press

If bath bombs, shampoo bars, and other moulded formulation delights have your heart, you might consider getting some sort of press. My press is by The Bath Bomb Press (gifted) and is powered by compressed air. You can also purchase presses that are electric and manual. I don&#;t have experience with any other sort of press, but I do love my Bath Bomb Press!

An overhead stirrer

This is definitely something I&#;m quite tempted to purchase! It&#;s an adjustable stirring device that&#;s attached to a stand, allowing you to turn it on and go hands-free. This frees your hands up to add ingredients while your formulation is being stirred by the machine. You can also just let the machine do all the stirring work on something that needs lots of stirring &#; An overhead stirrer would be useful for heaps of formulations! Make sure whatever you get is a reasonable size for the batches you tend to create and has enough power to stir the things you&#;ll create with it.

Learn more: Deciding Between a Magnetic Stirrer and an Overhead Stirrer

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